Moisture within a wall needs to escape and evaporate. Mortar that is too hard will force the moisture to escape through the softer brick or stone. This will result in permanent damage such as cracking and spalling.
Virtual Brick Crack On The Entry
The first is what makes brick no longer durable (my concern is contractors shaving off part of the brick when repointing). Or cracked off corners. I read that brick is softer on the inside and so exposure there could be as bad as missing mortar.
Okay so after seeing some questions and misinformation I(as a mason woth over a decade experience and union training) straight Portland cement is NOT bad. It is an ingredient of any masons mix which as the article states come in MSNOK(easy way to remember; MaSoNwOrK) Type L is practically unused and unheard of. Now I believe the problem most people run into is not properly vetting their masons. I would always recommend staying away from nonunion contractors. If price is an issue and your just looking to throw a masonry structure together as fast and cheap as possible nonunion may be acceptable. They may lay good brick and block but thats typically the extent of their knowledge. If you need historical restoration, really any restoration, patchwork, or more elegant and durable structures go union all the way. When I was first initiated as an apprentice I was sent to the best trade school the union offers; IMI. At this school we start education at its most basic, the mixing and manipulation of all 5 types of mortar. That is the foundation of knowledge required to make repairs that dont stick out like a sore thumb. Essentially each type of mortar is made with the same ingredients. Portland, lime, and masonry sand. The difference lies in the ratio of these materials in proportion to each other. Most non union masons are really only familiar with S and N as this is typically all that is commercially available. In order to mix any of the other types the mason must buy all the ingredients separately and mix them in the proper ratios. We were also taught in trade school that the mortar is to be considered a sacrificial element in the wall. As long as your mortar is not stronger than your masonry units you should have no issues with spalling or eroding brick relating to a repair. So if someone hires me to do some restoration on an historical building I show up to the site with a number of things that I know must be inspected and considered before I even think about taking a grinder to joints. This list is as follows:1. What type of masonry unit am I dealing with?2. Is this veneer or facade or is it structural?3. I examine the whole building and the state of its mortar joints; this informs me of a variety of things. IE are your joints raked or struck? What is the size of sand aggregate I can see in the mortar? How much mortar has eroded? Will I need to remove and replace any old, broken, cracked or otherwise defective units or Will i need to remove the face of any units and replace with soap(brick/block profile) also though many buildings can withstand a powerwash i wouldnt exceed like 1250 psi at the most because depending on the condition of your building you may totally blow out joints and compromise the integrity of the wall.4. Find out approximate date built5. Take a few chunks of mortar and crumble them to analyze the contents, this would reveal what type of sand i need to use as well as the ratio of portland to lime. (High portland content is grey almost blue when new and strong. Higher lime content is white to tan depending on the age and weathering.)6. If the mortar appears to have changed color and is now tannish or buff colored I know I need to buy some color and mix in very small amounts until the mortar matches what is already in the building.(Keep in mind any mortar is goinf to lighten up considerably after curing so pointing on a building with tan or buff colored mortar will take a slightly brown mix.)7. Finally I make as accurate of an estimate of time and materials as I can.Anyways to make a long comment shorter, when doing restoration or any higher standard masonry work look for a reputable union contractor. We are taught trade secrets that have developed over thousands of years, we are all taught to meet a higher standard and we are taught the same things unlike a nonunion bricklayer who typically just learns a little more on each job they do, they just do not have the technical knowledge to make or even properly use the various types of mortar.
In 2014, then-independent BrickLink created the BrickLink Studio software as a free virtual LEGO building tool. Studio was built on the industry-standard Unity gaming engine and is designed to integrate with the BrickLink Marketplace. Its .io file format is based on the fan community-developed LDraw standard with part connectivity data added to give digital bricks clutch power. Users can import LEGO models built in LDD, LDraw, and other popular tools. Studio includes useful features like model stability checking, built-in photo-realistic rendering, and an integrated instructions maker.
But will LEGO's designers actually use stud.io? I heard rumors that LEGO has an "internal" version of LDD that they use and that they allowed the animators for video games and movies to use. It would make sense it would run on the same engine as the public version. It's wonderful we got such a robust piece of software it's clear is a valuable business asset of LEGO, even if it is a "lite" version its performance is outstanding.If "internal LDD" is really a thing, I have a conspiracy theory: LEGO doesn't want us to have LDD. They know it's too good for us. They regret letting a version of their corporate software be free to all. First, they remove the online gallery of downloadable MOCs. That in and of itself was a tremendous blow to the LDD creator community. They tried to sabotage public!LDD with the final update, introducing a plethora of bugs and removing parts and adding nothing. They just left it in that pitiful state, to drive away new and returning users. Which brings us to today. The LDD community on Eurobricks has been instructing users how to install the fully functional penultimate version of public!LDD, which you can still find on the internet... just not from LEGO. And in 2019 and 2020 they cracked the code and were able to hack it to provide fan updates. LEGO discovered this, decides to publicly axe LDD here and declare stud.io to be the "new" "OffICiaL" program to drive everyone away from their own LDD software, which they think is too good for the public to have. And with these Eurobricks hackers saving public!LDD, they decide it's better to have LDD forgotten without a trace than to fill it with bugs to make it look bad.However, it would be hilarious if LEGO were so lazy and bad at making in-house software they just use stud.io internally from now on. But we know better. They are still using their top-secret super powerful version of LDD!It's ironic how the fans are now keeping LDD alive and continually updating it while LEGO "adopts" fanmade software.
As these experts note, it is very important to use masonry paint for outdoor brick projects. "It's designed to provide extra protection from cracking, peeling, and blistering. It is also mildew resistant, providing a coating to prevent mold and surface stains."
FIX: For less severe cracks (less than 1/2 inch) crack sealing will prevent the further entry of moisture into the subgrade. If the cracks are more severe the removal of the cracked pavement layer followed by an overlay may be required.
One thing to keep in mind before filming: Make sure the apartment is clean and decluttered. These videos show every inch of an apartment, including what you might miss in a traditional walk-through (think scuffed paint or cracks in the ceiling). Another tip from brokers: Don't rely on the virtual tour to tell the whole story. That means your broker will still need to provide photos and information about the listing, the building, and the neighborhood.
The winter season is a festive time of year for gathering around the fireplace, sharing stories, and sipping hot cocoa. The pillow of snow blanketing the neighborhood is a beautiful sight, but it is also a time of year when homeowners are likely to spot a leaky chimney. The rain, snow, and ice can be damaging to masonry chimneys. They soften the porous materials causing bricks and mortar to flake, crack, and crumble, leaving tiny gaps where water can infiltrate the chimney system. It can also damage the flashing material, another common entry point for water leaks.
Masonry Damage: The freezing rain and ice have a damaging effect on the exterior masonry. Over time, the constant freezing and thawing cause brick and mortar to crack, exposing gaps in the mortar joints. As the damage progresses, bricks will loosen and separate from the chimney. Extensive masonry damage can lead to a partial or complete chimney collapse.
Only first-order solid continuum stress/displacement elements can be associated with an enriched feature. For propagating cracks these include bilinear plane strain and plane stress elements, linear brick elements, and linear tetrahedron elements. For stationary cracks, these include linear brick and linear tetrahedron elements.
A slice through the plane of the crack. Axis N is perpendicular to the plane of the crack. Axis T is tangent to the crack at each point. (The crack front is shown in red.) Axis V is the virtual crack extension direction and is perpendicular to both N and T.
Note that the results for each crack are written to a separate file, and then all of the crack results are combined together. The Results environment reads the results from the combined file. If a crack is deleted or modified (right-click on the entry in the tree view, then "Delete" or "Modify..."), the results for the other cracks need to be re-combined. These actions could produce a noticeable delay. 2ff7e9595c
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